Monday, July 19, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 10 Bozeman to Columbus, MT

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7154573536

Relive

https://www.relive.cc/view/vrqDdGr1Jwq


I90 uphill start

Frontage roads mostly downhill all day...losing nearly 2,000 ft from high

Fast downhills...felt strong

Livingston fly fishing on the Yellowstone river

Missed 1st rest stop and got bonus miles

A couple more times on I90

Mike flat at 2nd rest stop

Into the 90’s and low 100’s.....max 104f

Joined by Rod and John for last 15 miles

Trying for 5 hour Century...made it by less than a minute

McDonalds for smoothy and Super 8 at big truck stop

Dinner....Subway,,jo jo’s, potato chips, PBR in the room

Sunday, July 18, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 9 Butte to Bozeman, MT

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7149165504


Relive

Check out PAC Tour Day 9  Butte to Bozeman on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/v26Mx4XyN3O


Day started out cool and with a bit of apprehension as I wasn’t feeling quite right for the first half hour.  I seemingly couldn’t catch my breath and my legs seemed tired.  But with a slight downhill, followed  by a slight rise onto a cool forested road I felt better and proceeded to hammer the upcoming 2 mile 1,000 foot climb. All good as we crested and proceeded to enjoy the 8 mile 1,600 foot descent.  Along the way we crossed the Continental Divide.  The descent was fairly straight forward with few turns which allowed speeds of +40mph....meanwhile rocketman hit 79.2mph in his machine!

The rest of the route until about lunch was up and down in big open ranch and farm country.  Lots of wide open vistas for sure....but no time to really enjoy them as our eyes are focused on the 30 feet ahead for any road hazards.  Still it was amazing country, especially as we followed alongside the Madison River where hundreds were tubing/rafting the river on a hot high 90’s day.  I’ve been by this river already 3 times on various PacTour rides and  have wanted to stop and jump into the river.  But no...no time.  Got to come back here and do a float.

Lunch in a dusty parking lot beside the river and solo’d the 25 miles into Bozeman, stopping at Wendy’s for a frosty as I was an hour early for a 3pm checkin at the Days Inn.  After a not so great start, I finished the 100 mile ride in under 6 hours of riding time....so that’s a good confidence builder for the days ahead. Just hoping the weather gets cooler and the winds are behind us.  Is that too much to ask?  We’ll see.


Saturday, July 17, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 8 Missoula to Butte, MT

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7143586993

Relive

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 8  Missoula to Butte on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/v1Ow3gYBMEO


Today started out great with cool temperatures and a fast pace...our legs were feeling good.  First 17 miles on frontage backroads and then a turn onto I90 for the next 17 miles.  We only get on Interstates if there are no other reasonable options....and it is allowed for bikes.  The main issue/problem with riding on the shoulders of Interstates for bikes is the debris on them. Rocks, pebbles, sand, broken glass are bad enough but the worst is bits of wire from typically from blown truck tires.  So when you bits of tire rubber on the shoulders, there’s usually bits of wire around as the tires are “steel belted”.  And about 12 miles riding on I90 I got a rear flat from a tiny (1/4 inch) of wire that went through my tire and punctured my inner tube.  With Mike and Indy Mike’s help we removed the tire, replaced the inner tube with a new one (it’s not worth trying to patch the hole...takes too long) and put the tire back on.  This whole process is supposed to take about 7 or 8 minutes, except we had a very difficult time putting the tire back on.  This was primarily due to the fact that my wheels are tubeless tires compatible and the tolerances are very tight.  In other words it takes a lot of hand strength to fold the tire back onto the wheel.  With big Mike’s help, I finally got the tire back on and manually pumped up (with my mini-pump) the tube/tire...or so I thought.  Got going and there was a pronounced wobble/bump from my rear wheel.  We stopped and found that the tire hadn’t fully seated to the wheel and it would require more inflation.  Already putting in 30 minutes, I pulled out my CO2 cartridge and blasted the contents into the tube and we were good to go.

But by now, instead of being at near the front of all readers we were behind nearly everyone, which is an comfortable feeling, especially if another flat would occur. So we were amongst the last riders into the rest stops and lunch for the remainder of the day

Other than this section and another 3 mile section, the route was on frontage and small 2 lane highways. An interesting rest stop was a metal sculpture store/museum and lunch was near Phillipsburg, a popular old West town.  After lunch we had a big climb that took us to a big lake...Georgetown before heading down to Anaconda...a former copper mining site but now a huge Superfund cleanup site.  And the temperatures got hot....well into the 90’s. Going into Butte, after 5 or miles on I90, we were on small roads and finally a bike path.  Both were some of the worst roads/paths I’ve ridden.  The issue is cracks in the pavement, both by design and by nature...frost heaves.  These cracks are at least an inch wide to sometimes 6 inches wide, which just pound one’s 3 contact points on the bike....one’s hands, feet, and butt.  After a long hot day it’s not fun!

We ended at the outskirts of town at a Super 8 and had my favorite dinner on these bike rides at the Perkins restaurant across the street.  My favorite dinner?   Breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns and pancakes.  The combination satisfies my salt/sigar cravings, it’s typically enough food, it’s easily digested and easy to sleep on, and it’s fast and reasonably priced....particularly at Denny’s...Grand Slam breakfast...can’t be beat.

Mike’s contribution to the blog.....

Lon Halderman hates bike wheels: last 10 miles to get off I90 highway were on the worst frost heave asphalt of our lives, the road the bike path. It was a constant jarring and wheel pounding hourish. The vote was next time back on the highway (9ft shoulder, safe enough, clean). Someone complained to Lon about it and his response was it was just because we were hot and tired... 

We're in Trump Country. Apparently, all those signs w/ American flags and "Truth Matters" are not directed at, you know, knowing the truth (I had to ask to find out).

Yay me (Mike): finished with Tom again for 4th time (of 8... Day 1 was fine, Day 2 I got dropped on Washington Pass, Day 3 was ignominious ride in van in heat, Day 4 into Spokane, Day 5 into Sandpoint, Day 6 I hung back to get Ned into St Regis, Day 7 was mechanical with freewheel and another ride in van, Day 8 today was full steam ahead to the end of day into Butte. Full day means 8 hours in the saddle with Tom so more opportunities for his gentle riding hints (USE YOUR MIRROR!) and admonitions (YOUR OTHER LEFT!). 

On first NorCon in 2010 I tracked road kill, on this trip we aren't seeing as much (?) but we are smelling a lot more of it. Parfum de Cerf Morte has been a theme.

Ah PACtour, where else is human biology so enthusiastically shared? I peed at EVERY food stop said someone at breakfast. (Editors note I.e. me/Tom...TMI!)

There are no atheists in foxholes. Or on PACtour:
It's only 90 degrees in Butte!
Thank God

That was a great tailwind those 20 miles.
What a blessing

Another NorCon 2010 flashback... Back then Tom and I were in small minority with red flashing tail lights. On Ridge of Rockies tour in 2011, Tom and Don and I were the red-light brigade. This year almost every rider has one; our mornings start with a line of little red twinkles spread out to the horizon (or next corner), and navigation is easier if you're following a winking light in the distance. Now if we could get everyone using a mirror it'd be good next step (per above, having one doesn't equal using one but it's a start).

2 riders joined today for 5 days (!) of riding, they will be gone in Sheridan... won't even know their names before they leave, still working through the people already here. How many Johns and Mikes can there be on one trip?

PACTour next thought is 8 days done and not a glance at a TV. Always something to clean, to prepare, to organize to check. Day 9 tomorrow, should be easy but nothing is easy over 100 degrees...


Friday, July 16, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 6 Sandpoint to St. Regis , MT

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7132287080

Relive

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 6  Sandpoint to St. Regis on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/vNOPYN5nn26


Long day in the saddle...any ride over 100 miles or over 6 hours qualifies as one needs to hydrate and eat well & enough to “survive” such an effort.  Fortunately, the weather was only a bit smokey and cool in the morning with temps rising into the 90’s by mid afternoon.  Tailwinds until the last turn westward at around 125 miles helped.  As did various pace lines with strong riders.

Mike’s close friend Ned from Missoula drove to the start from Missoula after just getting home from a business trip in L.A., arriving after 1am with a wake up call at 5 and the ride start at 6.  As this was his only opportunity to see Mike, he wanted to ride to St. Regis where a friend would eventually get him back to his car in Sandpoint.  Not sure if he really understood what he was getting into, but let it be said, he made it the whole way and with newfound respect for PAC Tour and us knuckleheads.

We rode along Lake Pend Oreille at the start which was calm and scenic. We were again joined by Bruce & Stacy who are vacationing in Sandpoint for the first part of the ride before turning around.  Pace lines were the order of the day which kept the average speeds high.  I think everyone was a bit anxious for this day given it’s length, a bit of climbing, and the hot smokey weather. So everyone was on their game to get the ride done.  None more so than myself and PA John Newton as together we road the last 32 miles together at a fairly high speed....that is until we turned westward towards St. Regis and along the downward flowing Clark Fork River.  So we were going slightly uphill against a headwind...not an ideal combination. (BTW...we see a lot of the Clark Fork River over the next 2 days.) In fairness, John pulled (led our 2 man effort) more than I but together we made it into St. Regis for chocolate milkshake recovery drinks.  A quick bike wash, clothes wash, shower and massages, along with a time zone change (losing an hour) and it was time for dinner at about the only restaurant in town.  Jaspers....not to be recommended as the service was slow, the food ok, and overpriced.  We made up for it, partially, by getting a “skyscraper” (24oz) of PBR at the Conoco gas station! And off to bed at our Super 8 Motel, which very surprisingly has improved their rooms from our Crossing in 2010...at least this one! 

It was a good day, all in all.  Felt that I had the right level of mental & physical preparation for the longest stage so far.  Though the Winthrop to Coulee City segment with temps approaching 110f was the hardest so far.  Onwards!





PAC Tour 2021 - Day 7 St. Regis to Missoula, MT

Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7136713808


Relive

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 7 St. Regis to Missoula on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/vMq5W15rXQO


Easy day today as it was short (77 miles), scenic for the most part, not very hilly,  cool morning temps with an early start at 7:00 in order to get into Missoula for lunch....and not a typical PAC Tour provided lunch on benches, under a portable canopy alongside a highway.  So we took it easy as tomorrow’s ride is long at 136 miles and 5,700’ of climbing with temps into the 90’s... into picturesque Butte!

The route today had us going on and off, over and under I90.  When on I90, I like to “beat feet”, that is go fast as it’s noisy and nerve racking with semi-trucks only 6 feet away going 70mph while cars are going 90.  The legal posted speeds are 60 & 80 respectively on the Interstate.  I just as soon go fast and get onto quieter frontage or side roads.  That said, the planned route was plenty scenic as it followed the Clark Fork River nearly all the way into Missoula. Lots of people drifting, fishing and rafting on the river....something to do in the future on a return trip.

Just before our last rest stop of the day, Mike had a mechanical issue (freewheel would not engage causing his chain to become slack....not good).  While it can become very unsafe, one can keep pedaling so as to not engage (I.e. coast) the free wheel....which Mike did, the remaining 2 miles to the rest stop...meanwhile picking up a staple, flattening his rear tire.  So Mike sagged into Missoula with his bike in the van while I rode easy into town.  He subsequently got his bike fixed by the PacTour crew...who are truly great at their jobs.

Staying at the Holiday Inn by the river and downtown is nice.  The biggest and one of nicer hotels I’ve stayed at on a PacTour. Spent a couple of leisurely hours doing what I hurriedly fo in an hour.  Of course, doing the Relive pictures and comments as well as this blog take time which may become more precious as the ride goes on.

Finally, had a fabulous dinner at an Italian restaurant (Caio Mambo) across the river.  Highly recommended.  We’ll see tomorrow if the meal and carbo loading helps.  Ride on!







Wednesday, July 14, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 5 Spokane to Sandpoint, ID

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7126579929

Relive 

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 5  Spokane to Sandpoint on Relive!

https://www.relive.cc/view/vmqXXD31doq



It’s getting to feel like Groundhog Day all over again....which is actually a good thing.  One gets into the routine & rhythm of getting up, having breakfast, changing into cycling clothes, packing up, getting the bike & gear bag outside & into the trailer, setting out on the ride, stopping at the rest stops and lunch...refilling our water bottles, eating snacks and lunch, putting on sunscreen and lip balm, getting to the next motel, washing and lubing the bike, sink washing clothes, taking a shower, setting up the next day’s clothes, doing the Garmin/Relive/blog thing, going out to eat, catching up with emails/life, calling home, and then hopefully getting a good night’s sleep.  Rinse & repeat as they say.

So today’s ride was short at about 83 miles but still hot. Thankfully there was some shade and riding b6 rivers & lakes which mak3 it seem cooler but oh so tempting to stop and jump in. Taking it easy (a new all time low of 123 watt average) in preparation for tomorrow’s big day of 146 miles.  Starting out at 6:00 and with temps going to only the low 90’s.  Fortunately it’ll be relatively flat with 2700 feet of climbing and hopefully with no headwinds.  

We were visited today by a Seattle area friend, Bruce Hamilton and his partner, Stacy, who now live in Palm Springs and are close friends of PA (Pennsylvania) John...small world.

That’s it for now.  Going to the Safeway deli for dinner since it’s across the street and I can save my legs for the big effort tomorrow.  Stay tuned!

Tuesday, July 13, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 4 Coulee Dam to Spokane, WA

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7120757684

Relive

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 4  Coulee City to Spokane on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/v26MxP4nAEO

Today started with a parking lot breakfast.....the usual if the motel doesn’t provide one.  A light ash was on all surfaces as there was a forest fire just north of Coulee Dam that started yesterday from a lightening strike.  In fact they closed the road just after we all had cycled through. The same thing happened 2 days ago when they closed the North Cascades Highway west of Winthrop just after we passed through. This is too scary and weird to be just ahead of these fires and road closures.  I don’t know what happen if roads were closed as we have confirmed reservations at every stop along our route over 34 nights.

Anyway, there was a light smoke layer in the air making the sunlight a rosy color.  We started early at 6:30 with a 1000+ foot climb over 5 miles onto the plains and wheat fields of Eastern Washington. The smoke was still with us but bearable.  Unfortunately the heat was still with us with temps approaching 100f.  Funny thing is that we’re getting acclimated to it as well as doing the appropriate things like drinking lots of fluids (water, Coke, water with endurance powder, etc), popping electrolyte tablets, eating at rest stops (bananas, salty snacks, cookies, etc) and pulling out the tube socks for ice necklaces when it gets above 90f.

The ride for me was good.  Mike suffered more in the heat and did the ride on his own.  I managed to grab some wheels and rode fairly strongly on my own as well to clock my fastest average speed so far. Got into Spokane before the motel/luggage vehicle and so I went to a nearby Wendy’s for a frosty and lemonade.  By the time I finished, my rear tire was flat...so I walked the bike back to the motel and changed out the tube in the shade.  A really small piece of wire from a blown truck tire was the culprit. 

Got all washed up and organized before going out to dinner with longtime friend, John Hansen and his son, Mike at Anthony’s on the River.  Great dinner and time catching up with the two.

So tomorrow is another “easy” day (anything under 100 miles) before a grueling 146 mile day into Montana.  Something to look forward to:). Just hoping for cooler weather!


Note, if anyone is reading this (besides Laurie) and has any questions or comments, I believe you can leave them on the blog.  I’ll try to answer them.

Monday, July 12, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 3 Winthrop to Coulee Dam, WA

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7115636230

Relive

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 3  Winthrop to Coulee City on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/vWqBn5jWyQq


Today was one of the toughest days on the bike.  It’s really hard to push the pedals, especially on steep inclines, when there is no shade and the temps were in the range of 100f to 110f....not to mention the heat coming off the tarmac/road.  Anyway, I got through it by drinking lots at each rest stop, taking a couple of electrolyte tablets at each stop, and filling up a tube sock filled with ice cubes that draped around my neck and let melt/drip through my cycling jersey and into my cycling shorts.  Believe me, it does wonders and feel so great for about 5 to 10 miles (upwards of 40 minutes) before it’s all melted.  The only downside is that the melt mixes in with my sweat so it can leave a lot of white salt deposits on my black shorts.  Looks a lot worse than it is.

For data geeks, my Garmin shows my average power was only 134 watts (usually in the 170 to 190 range) indicating that I was spinning more than pushing down hard the pedals.  Also the Garmin has a suggested recovery time after each ride....for the first time it suggested 4 days!  Up until now, suggested recovery times were always in hours...not days.   But there’s no days off on this Tour, so we ride tomorrow starting at 6:30 to “beat” the heat on our way to Spokane and a Holiday Inn Express...yea!  Mind you, it’s forecasted to be 77f at 6:30 so I don’t think we will be beating anything except our selves.

BTW...all my aches and pains did not manifest themselves today.  Lucky me, but still a bit sore and tired.  We’ll see what a good nights sleep will do for recovery.

Enjoy the Relive video and pics....they tell the story better than me.

Sunday, July 11, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 2 Sedro-Woolley to Winthrop, WA

 Garmin

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7110329849


Relive

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 2  Sedro-Woolley to Winthrop on Relive!
https://www.relive.cc/view/vJOKgkWo4wO

Today, it seems like a lot went on and nothing at the same time.  Nearly 8 hours riding time and it could have been a lot longer except for a favorable tailwind coming down off Washington Pass for about 25 miles.  Tailwinds can be both good and bad at the same time.  Good in that it pushes you along...and bad that one doesn’t get any cooling effect like a headwind....making a hot day even hotter.  Temps were in the low 70’s until we hit Lake Diablo and the real climbing began.  Then it rose steadily to the high 90’s as we climbed and felt the heat from Eastern Washington.  The last stretch was exacerbated by nearby forest fires and the resulting smoke.  Wasn’t bad but it did turn the sunlight into a rosy glow.

I don’t know if it’s my paranoia, but it seems like whenever I feel a soreness or pain somewhere, I’m thinking the worst....that this is the injury that could cause me to not ride.  I think every endurance rider has these fears.  For me, it’s a persistent pain to the side of my right Achilles Heal.  I can put pressure on the pedals but the pain is always there when I think about it.  And sometimes my hamstrings feel tight at times and I’m afraid that I’ll overstretch them....but the show goes on.  Today after the ride, I got a 25 minute leg massage from one of the Peruvian young women who are crewing theTour.  (More on that in a latter blog).  Don’t know if it helped but it can’t hurt:)

Staying in a nice rustic cabin like motel outside of Winthrop.  The crew order lots of pizzas for the riders so we didn’t have to venture out.  Nice relaxing dinner while drinking seemingly gallons of Coke, recovery Hammer drink, and water. Funny that I only have to get up once in the night to pee. I know that’s tmi but it’s a fact of the effort taken in heat and hydrating oneself.

Tomorrow should be another hot day but “only” 102 miles so we’re leaving after 7:30.  Hopefully the leg feels better and I won’t be continually worried about it.

Early to bed....actually to watch YouTube recaps of the TdF (Tour d’France) and then sleep.

Saturday, July 10, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 1 Everett to Sedro-Woolley, WA

Garmin data....

Check out my cycling activity on Garmin Connect. #beatyesterday
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7104135115


Relive video...

Check out PAC Tour 2021 Day 1  Everett to Sedro-Woolley on Relive!

https://www.relive.cc/view/vrqDQ7rygLv 


Good weather day today with cloudy conditions and cool temps (50’s) for the first 3 or so hours.  Started out at 6:15 in order to catch to 7:00 ferry to Whidbey Island from Mukilteo.  I’m very familiar with roads on Whidbey having cycled there home countless times over the years.  It’s easily one of my favorite places to ride given the varied terrain and relatively quiet roads.

Unfortunately one of our riders (Ernie, the oldest participant at 74yo) came down off his bike while descending on a section of roadworks that was laid out in fine gravel in preparation to be chip sealed.  He apparently got into some loose gravel and came down.  He had to be ambulanced off the Island to Everett with the last report breaking his collar bone and 6 ribs as well as a fracture to his C2 vertebrae along with a lacerated liver. Obviously he was in a lot of pain.  This happened with only about 20 miles into our ride across the country! And he had already put in over 9,000 miles of training since the beginning of the year. I feel especially bad as I’ve ridden with Ernie on all my prior 5 PAC Tours.  The only saving grace is that Ernie is from the Seattle area so he’s already close to home.

 But the ride goes on and the weather got clearer and warmer with temps in the 70’s.  Perfect temps that we’ll long for in the coming days and weeks as it gets hotter as we go eastward.

Don Moe who dropped out of the ride a couple of weeks ago due to recent emergency eye surgery (he’s fine now but not in endurance cycling shape) came to lunch and rode with Mike & I after lunch for 20 or so miles.  It was good to see him and try to talk him into joining us somewhere east of S. Dakota.  He’ll try.

Just before lunch, Mike & I were victims of some friendly verbal abuse from a van that was driving beside us.  We turn to see it was Malcolm McPhee from Anacortes, a good friend of mine from many years of cycling here and in Europe.  He was following us on Garmin’s Live tracking feature and he knew just where we were to intercept us with his taunts.  All in good fun and a pleasant surprise.

Made it to the motel before check-in time, so went to Dairy Queen for a well deserved ice cream cone. Then back to the motel to clean the bike, wash our cycling clothes, and take a shower before going out to dinner.  Don came up and we drove 6 miles to the Fairhaven restaurant in Burlington for a great meal...highly recommended if in the area.

Now it’s back to writing this post, figuring out why my Garmin Live Tracking stopped working after lunch and sleep.

Big day tomorrow as we cross the North Cascades mountains.


Friday, July 9, 2021

PAC Tour 2021 - Day 0 Prologue Home to Start

 Garmin

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/7097836192


Rode from home down to the Edmonds waterfront which symbolically represents the U.S West Coast...and now onto the East Coast in 34 days.  Yikes!  Easy ride on familiar roads to the start motel in Everett.

Had a riders meeting at 3:30 with Lon Haldeman outlining the daily schedule/routine.  Nothing much has changed from the first PacTour of 11 years ago.  This will be 100th time that PacTour has conducted a ride across the country....so they’ve got it down pretty well.  Surprisingly there was no mention of the Atomic Clock which rules everything.  Maybe it broke down?  Only big change noted was a switch from 1.75 liter bottles of soda to 12oz cans.  I imagine for Covid reasons so we’ll be going through a LOT of cans....I would say 5 to 8 per day for me alone....especially when it’s above 90f.

Group dinner was at 5:00.  Standard fare of chicken or eggplant Parmesan, pasta, rice, salad, etc.

Lots of familiar faces and newbies as well.  From the roster there are only 2 riders under 50, with most in the 50 to 65 yo range.  Oldest rider, Ernie (who has been on 4 of the 5 previous PacTour rides with me) is the oldest at 74.  At 69, there are only 5 or 6 riders order than me....and a couple of those are women. I think there are 8 women out of 36 riders....and one of them is riding a semi recumbent bike.

Well it’s off to bed for a 5am wake up.  Don’t know when my roommate Mike is going to show up.  He was finishing up some work stuff at 3pm and had to drive north out of Seattle....which is just brutal on a summer Friday afternoon/evening.  It’s after 8 now...and im sure he’s going to wake me up at whatever time he gets here.

And so it starts...onwards!

Friday, July 29, 2011

Day 18, Fri, 7/29th... The End: To Albuquerque.

75 miles and done. Like this:

Into Albuquerque... is it a little tough to get excited about ending a trip in Albuquerque? Yes. Because once we got out of Santa Fe it was... well, what you might expect New Mexico to be, tan ground and a lot of scrub and choppy hills that went on and on and on and... and it ends in Albuqurque.





The totals are 1860 miles, 90K feet of vertical, and something like 17.8MPH for an average. So says Tom's Garmin. And we all know that's one machine's opinion.

The key quotes of the trip summary goes something like:

Ugh, this room stinks (Tom, on entry into our room)

I wish I had some ice. (Don, on the side of the road as I fixed a flat outside Rangely, which might have been true, but seemed just a little out of context on a hot dry road, as Tom said at the time, "want to wish for a beautiful woman to bring it to us too?")

Get a mirror! (Tom, after scaring another rider into the ditch on the way to West Yellowstone)

What am I doing here with you? (Tom, to me, as we sat on the sun room of the Yellowstone Hotel listening to the string quartet with our drinks)

You jinxed me! (Reg to Tom, when Tom commented on the lack of flats that Reg had so far... Reg got a flat the next morning...)

Feels like we never left. (Greg, after the second morning of breakfast in the parking lot and another smells-something-like-cigarettes cheap motel)

Our thoughts go out to the dozens of dead skunks. Not as much roadkill this year, but the skunk count was very high, like one per hour.

There must have been 15 flats today, throwing bottles out the window is sport in New Mexico... Poor Lou must have had 5 on his own.

Bike break downs and then dinner and then slide show and the ice cream and now all done. The first morning shuttles are at 6am. That's all from this year's tour... Don, Tom, Greg, Mike and ? on the frontage road from Missoula to Butte. Ending as always with the Rocky Horror Picture Show:

Cause I've seen blue skies through the tears
In my eyes
And I realise.. I'm going home.

I'm going home, I'm going home.


PAC Tour 2011 - Day 18 Sante Fe to Albuquerque, NM by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 18 Sante Fe to Albuquerque, NM by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Indian Paintbrush (Top of Wolf Creek Pass)




Day 17\Thurs July 28, Chama to Santa Fe

105 miles.

Chama and then a long way down, out of forests and the lush northern part of New Mexico, through a valley to Espanola (the low point, about mile 80) and then back up to Santa Fe. As it got lower it got hotter... some relief back towards the top. 4,700 vertical feet.

The impressive thing was how the landscape changed, starting with awful yet-to-be-asphalted gravel roads through the rest stop at 24 miles, but we were impressed by how pretty the high plains and mountains were, full of trees, the comment "this doesn't look like New Mexico" was made quite often. Note the road conditions...


Then that slope from about mile 30 to 40... I hooked up with Bruce (New Hampshire) and Jerry (WI) and we had one of the trancendent moments of the tour (it lasted several miles), 30+MPH leap frogging each other and just pounding down the hill, little traffic, great shoulder and zooming fast down a canyon. Maybe too fast... we missed a turn which Tom and Don took to a huge half-sphere carved into the canyon wall where you can talk at one side and be heard at the other as the sound bounces around the stone. I remember seeing it but on we went.

When we popped out at the bottom of the canyon we were not in the trees anymore: striped eroded hillsides and red rock and scrub, complete change of scenery. This was at the 46 mile rest stop:

Then on to next rest stop riding with Cassie and then on to lunch back with Jerry and Bruce and absolutely pounding the pavement, probably averaged over 23MPH for the 15 or so miles, but then when you've got this to look at - scrub and rock - why not ride fast? Those thunderstorms stayed looming all day but we never got a drop, they awere to our east.


What the day will be remembered for is the glass. The shoulders were covered with broken bottle bits and shards, I think more tires were changed today than in the whole trip combined, everywhere was a road hazard. Shoulders were wide - no question - but with the amount of glass and gravel and broken tire bits they presented more of a hazard than riding in the road and risking the wrath of traffic.

From lunch at mile 80 into Santa Fe (105) was a lot of corners and turns but got in right at 2:30; now 4:30pm and everything and everyone is washed and ready for tomorrow, the last day. The main city square is only a block or two away so off to explore and get dinner, then, as the gang in Les Mis sings...

ALL
Tomorrow we'll discover
What our God in Heaven has in store!
One more dawn
One more day
One day more

The end is closing fast... thoughts of work, family, and upcoming adventures are prevalent (Karen is training for PBP that starts Aug 20th for example). I have to admit feeling a little lost: these legs can pound, these lungs that haven't been below 6,000ft in a week and over many passes at 10K or even 11K, meanwhile a string of seven 100 mile days in a row, and 10 of the last 11 days, not to mention the climbing of 5K to 8K vertical a day. How do I feel? FIGJAM, (Aussie racing slang... F#$# I'm Good, Just Ask Me, see all the good things that multi-cultural experiences lead to?).

So seems hard to walk away from feeling so able. But one more day.


Dinner was in two parts, with Greg and Tom on the plaza, pizza and beer in the rain before the music kicked off on the square, then 2nd round with the sister of a friend (Susan Thornton) at a small restaurant across from hotel.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Pictures: Day 16; Weds, 27th, South Fork to Charma

Sun coming up, breakfast was at 6:15, load and ride at 6:45 to 7:15... Bikes already out at the trailers.

Going up to Wolf Creek Pass, sense of the rocks and again this was dry side of the pass. On the left is a HUGE congregation of RVs, a hundred or more of them in one place.






Pictures, Day 15\Tuesday, 26th: South Park out and back...

So this was our loop ride, heading out in the morning the fog was at the rock tops, but it kept lifting bit by bit so we never got into any type of weather. This was close to South Park, maybe 5 miles out of town, the Rio Grande River to the left out of sight.

This was maybe 48 miles into the ride, I want to say north but who knows? Just up the road, but love this picture, it looks into the wilderness area where the headwaters of the Rio Grande River are. Nothing but open ground and the 100 moose they helicoptered into the area.





PAC Tour 2011 - Day 16 South Fork, CO to Chama, NM by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 16 South Fork, CO to Chama, NM by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Day 16\Weds\July 27th: South Fork to Chama

90 miles, was supposed to be but I backtracked a little at the end of the ride and made it a century, why not, only two days left. The big news of the day was getting up this morning in South Fork and climbing back over Wolf Creek Pass, an easier side to climb as it's more gradual, then a brisk and extended 40MPH downhill for a coffee in Pagosa Springs and then lunch and then into New Mexico, where we spent the last 20 miles of the day. Chama.. maybe only known for the old narrow gauge railway that ran from here to somewhere (oops, just found out the river is important in some of the paintings by Georgia O'Keefe), otherwise, like South Fork, the abandoned and for sale restaurants and shops and houses and mobile homes seem to outnumber those still operating. For you "Breaking Bad" fans Chama is also hotbed for meth production and usage. Property for sale and more of it - not sure if recent economic events or broader than that but it's plentiful...

Dinner was down the road, a fair walk, the Half Mile Restaurant, with a picture of the birthday celebration crew (minus Cassie, who took the picture):

Pictures: Day 14\Monday, Durango to South Fork

This was over the Wolf Creek Pass. Looming clouds and a good sense of the road, see that little thing? The pass is actually to the left of the picture quite a bit, this shows looking down at two levels of the road as it goes into the valley. Note how green it is, the wet side of the pass (facing north I think).



Then coming down the other side, drier by far, not much snow in South Park. Rock formations a lot more dramatic though, almost like basalt columns of E. Washington.


Pictures, Day 13\Sunday, Montrose to Durango...

Finally. This was from the 24th, Sunday, which means it was day 13, Montrose to Durango. So this was the road on the way up to one of the 3 peaks we climbed. At this point I have no idea which one... Likely the first. But in any case will give you a sense of the view.








Then, judging by time and date stamps, this is later the same climb, so must have been the first of the 3 we went over, ie, before dropping down to Silverton. I liked this picture because it shows two things, first, Tom's love of taking road pictures (literally) and 2nd the scree and sand of the top of the mountains, we were getting close not just to tree level, but to the "anything growing level".



Another guess, but I think this was climbing the 2nd pass, still sunny then and looking back. But not sure.

A Title For This Picture?

The Grinch Goes Cycling?

Tom tries to use suntan lotion as chamois cream?

Or?



Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Picture Attempt..

Well.. got one to load. How not to ride your bike - Tom's tube wrapped around his axel.



Day 15\Tuesday: Out and Back Ride or rest day...

124 miles.

Various people did various things. Some stayed and read or rested. Some went to Creede for coffee. Some went to the first summit at 55 miles out, Spring Creek Pass, the continental divide, again... (lunch of hot spaggetti on a cold day was really, really appreciated), some went on the 2nd top at 64 miles and came back to first summit for lunch.

For the 64 mile folks, it was 6,500ft of climb or so, depends on whose Garmin you believe. Out of town following Rt 149 through the mining town of Creede (Silver, Zinc, Lead) and then up over one pass, down, up the next to Slumgullion Pass at 11,530ft. Way up there, highest pass to date. The ride was against a headwind going up and a headwind coming back, through some high rock canyons and some of the prettiest mountain views we have seen. And you can't see because Blogger won't let me load the pictures. Out past the meadows that our ride followed is a wilderness area where the Rio Grande river begins which followed the road from just after the first pass all the way to town. Oh, for a fly rod... between the Rio Grand and the San Juan Rivers the day before we've passed a lot of classic trout water (Madison, Yellowstone, Snake Rivers too).

Tom rode up with Greg and did the trip in 17.6 average, I left later rode solo just under 17 MPH.

Right now it's HOWLING out, and raining, wind coming straight out of the south, where we will be heading first thing tomorrow as we cross back over Wolf Creek pass from the other side. Supposedly tomorrow will be better but as now it looks like wind and dark clouds, we were learning into the wind on the way home from Biggins, another night at same restaurant.

Laundry time...

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 15 Slumgullion Pass out & back by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 15 Slumgullion Pass out & back by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Monday, July 25, 2011

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 14 Durango to South Fork, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 14 Durango to South Fork, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 13 Montrose to Durango. CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 13 Montrose to Durango. CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Day 14 Durango, CO to South Fork, CO

117 miles.

Ride 90 miles, have lunch, climb a big hill to Wolf Creek Summit at 10,550ft summit (at mile 98), another cross of the continental divide, ride downhill for 20 miles to South Fork. That's the short version. It was cool with no headwind for the first 40+, got pretty warm as we got to lower elevations and a headwind kicked in, and the thunder was rumbling at the mountaintops by the time we had lunch... In terms of roads, the shortest path would have been Rt 160 the whole way, but we dipped south to almost New Mexico and turned north again, picking up Rt 160 for the last 2/3 of the ride.


Some people got to do the downhill in pouring rain. Spectacular mountain scenery on the way up with 12K ft peaks all around us and wide rock faces that stairstepped down the sides of the slopes. The narrow valley as we opened onto the plain above South Fork was as pretty as anything on the trip, but the views on the way up were impressive.

Another day, the 4th in a row, of between 110 and 120miles with about 8,000ft of climbing. Body parts falling off all over, more than a couple people taking rest days or opting into a van and out of the rain. Don broke his crank arm, had to ride a loaner bike for the day.... Tom blew out a tire, the tube was in shreds... see, it's not supposed to be wrapped around the hub like this (oops, can't post anything).

Dinner was just down the road at the one dining option, Biggins, good burgers and Andrew the Ozzie has talked them into being open tomorrow night so after our loop ride we can go back for dinner. I'd post pictures if I could get Blogger to post them for me, not sure what is up.

Day 13, Montrose, CO to Durango, Co

112 miles.

There was discussion of Day 9 (and fear and trepidation) only because nobody looked at Day 13... The day in elevation...








So we did 3 passes over 10k feet in the day... it was a straight shot south on Rt 550. First we had to get out of Montrose, a bigger town than it seemed from the night before (a half vacant strip of shops with no taxi in town to take us anywhere for dinner...), so city driving down a strip of development, then into the open, then just riding steadily. At 38 miles, about where you see the bump in the elevation, that's the town of Ouray, nestled in a bunch of mountains, and boom, up the road goes. Second day in a row of something new: white line on right side of road, 6 inches of asphalt, 50 ft straight down\no guardrail. If you went front wheel first over the side in a bunch of places it was goodbye, so we tried to be careful. All the traffic, a beautiful Saturday in July, made it interesting. Jeeps w/ winches and roof racks and fog lights, FJ Cruisers, RVs and everyone towing something: horses, rafts, ATVs, 2nd cars, something. From 7,706 to 11,118ft at the Red Mountain Pass, somewhere there's a picture.

Then zoom, down, lunch in Silverton, all tourists, all the time. Gold mines, silver mines, Ye Olde Photo store and such. Silverton is the very bottom trough between the first two spikes because right after lunch, back up to 10,910ft, Molas Pass, complete with pelting rain on the descent that REALLY HURTS even when trying to go slow because rode is slippery. Lose 1,300ft... and climb back up to 10,640ft, Coal Bank Pass. Descend again, this time to Durango, very, very fast (hit 50MPH) and wide roads, the rain stopped and it was just really hot for the long ride out. Had to pass through most of town to get to hotel.


And when the day was done we were really outside Durango at a Best Western on the highway, jeez was it hot, so instead of a walk into town we went next door to Christie's Restaurant where we watched the Tour de France finale in Paris and sang happy birthday to Jerry (Wisconsin) and called it a night.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 12 Grand Junction to Montrose, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 12 Grand Junction to Montrose, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Day 12; Grand Junction, CO to Montrose, Co

114 miles.

Something like 8,200ft of vertical. Do you know the joke about a man with two watches not knowing the time? It's like that... milage and vertical is a function of which person with which system ( mostly Garmin) I believe at that moment, the answers are never the same. On the other hand, 98 degrees in the shade as we had lunch at 2:00pm, that we all agreed was HOT!

Flowers, forgot to mention, we have been out of the high alpine world for a bit, lots of Black-eyed Susans and Aster with yellow center and purple petals along the road, then today back at altitude we had Yarrow, Bluebells, Daisies, spectacular yellow and purple Western Columbine and someting I stopped to pick but can't figure out, it was most like a butter-colored Indian Paintbrush. Hopefully someone other than my mom cares about these...


What we did today... we road out through big rock walls, we rode 20 miles up a hill to 10,823ft, we rode down the backside of the hill into high heat and then rolled out to Montrose. The support stops were as we started the climb, the mid-point of the climb, and at the top, then lunch down at 87 miles. The elevation should tell the story.


And at end of day Tom, Greg, Don, Regan and I went to Red Barn for steak and spagetti or both. Tomorrow another big day with a pass over 11K and another bunch of climbing.


So with that will leave with a picture of riding through the big rocks, we did this on the Interstate (70) for a couple miles out of town and then on a state highway, both were following waterways, the Colorado River or a feeder stream. Then across to the first rest stop and the start of the climb. Greg's time was just under 1.5hrs for 20 miles... not bad at 12MPH. Just on and on and on in the hot sun. The only remarkable thing was (and you can sort of see this in the elevation) the false summit near the top when suddenly, inexplicably, we weren't going to drop down on the perfectly good saddle we were crossing, no, WAY UP THERE, on the mountain above was a line carved into the rock, we needed to climb WAY UP THERE! It was the most surprised I have ever been on a bicycle, thinking from the tree profiles and land contour we were about to drop over to the left, and seeing that road up there to the right. But of course we did just that, we climbed it, almost 11K feet, highest I have ever been on a bike (or I think most people?). Then down, the road was in pretty good shape but not steep enough to be scary in the turns. Then lunch, then bad roads, then into Montrose.


If there's more, will have to wait, bedtime...

Pictures: Colorado National Monument







Friday, July 22, 2011

Day 11, Rangely, CO to Grand Junction, CO

112 miles.

Was to be 90 but we did an optional loop for another 22 miles and added 2K ft of climb. So total of about 6K+ vertical. Always hard to say exactly, nobody's Garmin agrees with each other on the statistics of the day.

But first, to close on yesterday, dinner last night was in the bar next to the hotel in Rangely... memorable because of our 16 year old waitress (isn't the drinking age 21 here?), and the expression on the local's faces as they walked into a bar full of Pactour riders (Germans, Swiss, Ozzie, Americans) watching, what is that... some bike race (Tour de France)? They'd chuckle and shake their heads before wandering outside to the smoking area; we stayed glued to the TV even if we already knew the outcome.

Today... to begin, some context because this trip is about to be a lot less about the miles and a lot more about the vertical feet, and even more about the altitude... So the altitudes to date. On Day 2 we climbed to Georgetown Lake at 6,300ft before descending to Anaconda and then Butte. Day 3 we left Butte and crossed the continental divide at 6,418ft, Pipestone Pass, a ride everyone should do. Day 5, as we did a ride around Yellowstone, we crossed the continental divide again, two passes at 8,262ft and 8,391ft a couple miles apart. Day 7 (after the town of Smoot) we climbed over the Salt River Pass at 7,630ft and then zoomed down into Montpelier. Day 9, between Evanston and Vernal and on the way through Flaming Gorge Recreation area, we topped off at 8,428ft although we spent about 12 miles over 8,000ft.

Can you hear the sucking sound of desperate breaths? The pain of low oxygen levels?

A brief interuption: for those of you reading in Seattle, I'm sorry. The temperature in Seattle this morning was 55 degrees, expected high of 75. We had 75 degrees with bright blue skies as we departed (7am) and it only went up from there. Another spectacular blue sky day, as they all have been since Butte to Ennis (day 3). As we left the Colorado National Monument about 3:00 this afternoon it was 89 degrees... in the shade. In the sun it was 100 degrees, and that was at 6600ft, about 2000ft higher than where we are now in Grand Junction. Time to break out the insulated water bottles: ice will last in them for 45 minutes vs about 5 minutes for a regular one.

Gettting ahead of myself here, about the day... If you are following at home then we were on Rt 139 south to Loma before bending east to Fruita and on to Grand Junction. Grand Junction is in the Grand Valley where the Gunnison River meets the Colorado River (guess what, both are hot chocolate brown, blech). Grand Junction and Grand Valley sit between the sandstone cliffs of the north and the Colorado National Monument to the south.

The day: for real now, we started in Rangely, where you don't need to visit, and it was warm and sunny at 7:15 as we left. It was an interesting study in humidity riding south because the start was lush and green, I have never seen Sage grow so big, 6 or 8 foot dark and healthy looking green shrubs (I think it was Sage?) amid vertical rock walls of red and tan and not a single building of any type. Except the natural gas extraction plants. Which explains why every vehicle that passed us was either a diesel pick-up truck with a Jobbox in the back or an oversized semi with huge mechanical implements for delivery to one of the plants. And speaking of wide loads, after our lunch stop we had a wide load that took an entire lane and then some, it was three cylinders on their side and it was huge, trucks coming the other direction had to pull off to let it pass. Not quite sure how that rig or that load was legal.

Anyway, for the 40 miles to the top of Douglas Pass at 8,200ft it was green with Sage which set off against the dark red rock. The first 20 miles were Tom and I with Cassie and Greg after we broke off from a bigger group, the 2nd 20 miles were Tom and I catching Cassie, then Greg, then Jim, with each person we added making it easier to catch the next one out ahead. Because those southern headwinds? They're back. Starting right after the 1st rest stop at 20 miles they were relentless and we cowered behind eachother to gain advantage, a total slog for the person leading the way. Then the climb, a real climb, up and curving and around in open range territory (out of my way, cow!) to the summit for the 2nd rest stop at 8,200ft. This is looking down from the pass at where we are about to go, before it gets brown anyway.


Then downhill, and fast, memorable for both the painful bumps from asphalt patches as well as the speed of the descent. Which never ended, it went on, and on, and on. But it went on in a far different climate, this side of the pass was dry (!) and sandstone brown and the Sage was now a silvery green plant just a foot or two tall. Beautiful in a very different way, the cliffs and bluffs and rimrock were obviously of two types, a soft homogenous sandstone with harder rocky layers sandwiched in between. So it was easy to see the rock was hard and could sustain sheer vertical edges, while the sandstone degraded into shallow slopes, so the result was cliff, slope, cliff, slope. In some areas there were edges of rock that looked the prows of ships with the slanted hills of sandstone and the vertical cliffs of harder rock. And it was all over, everywhere, left and right, and we rode out right through the middle of it over ledge after ledge. I think there were 5 of them, ledges in the road where we thought it was over but then we could peek over the ridgeline and oops, one more down and up to go. Something like this: All the way down to Loma at 4,00ft, about half of where we were at Douglas Pass. Lunch. A quick ride to Fruita to buy bike lights as required by the park rangers at Colorado National Monument so we could pass safely through the tunnels. Turns out they have lights that bikers can borrow at the ranger station, it is so odd that the bike shop didn't tell us that (!). $17 for a light for me, off we went. This was the optional part, the original route sent folks up the river to Grand Junction, for the rest of us Fred had created a route up and through the Colorado National Monument, so about 10 of us (that I tracked) took that route.. Brett, Cassie, me, Tom, Don, Greg, Brian (Colnago..), Big John (with the Seven) and I think Jim was out there somewhere all went right and then up 2,000 feet along the rimrock edge of the park. It was beautiful, a more homogenous red than what we'd been through with lots of Juniper, Pinion Pine and Sage.



Then down, switchbacks on clean asphalt, it was a great decent, and back through most of Grand Junction the city to our hotel. Dinnner with Tom and Don as I try to record all this next to the hotel, huge steaks and drinks and tomorrow, the real fun begins. From now on, altitude and vertical.

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 11 Rangely to Grand Junction, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 11 Rangely to Grand Junction, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Addendum, the Gang & One

This is from yesterday, the long ride, three of us in a row. You can't see our flashing red lights unfortunately. Notice the parallel mirrors...
And I keep forgetting to mention Kevin.. Kevin, from Georgia, doing the whole trip in sandles. Yes, really. And on a fixed gear bicycle - 47x18. Fixed as in he can't go downhill any faster than his legs can spin, which is the only time anyone can pass him. And he comes in first just about every day. He's done RAAM (race across america on a bicycle) twice and apparently this is how he's decided to challenge himself... amazing.

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 10 Vernal, UT to Rangely, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 10 Vernal, UT to Rangely, CO by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Day 11: Vernal, UT to Rangely, CO

52 Miles Just a quick zip between towns, out of Wyoming and into Colorado. Lazy breakfast, lazy loading of the vans and bikes around 9:00am-ish, the exact opposite of yesterday's early morning start and focus. It didn't even matter that Tom and Don stayed in their room until 9:30 watching the end of the Tour de France stage (Col de Galibier mountaintop finish), hovering over Don's iPhone. After that we stopped next door to check out the fossil and jewelry shop. Know what, fossils of dinosaur bones feel a lot like stone (they are stone...) and if polished they look like petrified wood and people make jewelry out of them. Learn something new every day. Personally a whole dinosaur femur might be interesting, but at 225lbs depending on animal it might be a tad heavy to care on the bike.
I'm stalling of course, you can probably tell that, but jeez what to write about? I mean 52 miles, the worst thing is your brain thinks it should be over as soon as you start so the ride feels longer than it is. And the scenery... well, as we headed west into Colorado we found a part of the west that wasn't verdent, lush, or leafy, it looked like Arizona at its best moments. Whoever named the Badlands hadn't been here, they'd be the Worselands, the rock outcroppings near the Dinosaur National Monument were neat, just don't look anywhere else... Sage growing through bare rock, brown grass with prarie dogs, a thin crust of brown dirt without a grazing animal to be seen.


And the roads, yuck, a lot of big trucks, several times they went past us with a car coming the other direction at the same time. The result was the car got forced onto their shoulder to make way for the truck and just a lot of noise and wind in a small space. The issue is the shoulder was full of rumble strips, those parallel gouges that make noise when you drive on them, which you can't ride a bike on so we had to stay close to the white line. More cheerful thoughts, the Green and the White Rivers are both hot-chocolate brown, and after the long shallow climb up to the ridge of the overlooking Rangely what you see is... Rangely. Free bumber stickers on request that say "I Love Drilling." Natural gas and mining, a tough, very real, Western town. Hot and dry and 360 degrees of brown. Lunch at 1pm on arrival, and that was after two (!) rest stops on the way, so lots of time for laundry, a new rear tire (mine, a 2nd flat today) and lounging about. As Tom said, when we left this morning (10am), we'd done more miles yesterday (70+) by that hour of the day than we were riding all of today. Back to the real stuff tomorrow...

Day 9 (the long day): Evanston Wy to Vernal, Utah

150 miles, the day of many scenes.


Nervous energy, anxious people at the 5:30am breakfast, by 5:55 there were a dozen people standing around with their duffles ready to put them on the trailer and start riding. At 5:59 Susan said that people with their name on the trailer (ie, 20K and 10K PacTour riders) could load first, then the rest of us could. By 6:04am the lot was empty except for a handful of bikes, oh, including us (Don, where's Don... Don please stop sorting your socks by color and get out here, Tom's got steam coming out of his ears, I mean it is 6:06...). Then we were off in the early dawn light, the sun nowhere near over the hills to our east.

And east we went on Interstate 80 for the first 30 miles of the day, watching the sun peak over and then climb above the hills. It was surprisingly easy riding, the highway was being resurfaced so we had 20+ miles to ourselves with the eastbound traffic shunted over to share the westbound lanes. New smooth concrete and long straight hills and descents, just a question of making progress. I don't remember much about the scenery, just windmills lined up at the top of one of the hills and wondering if that was a good thing (tailwind), or bad.
Off the highway and through Fort Bridger (Rt 414) and then another 30 miles to the next rest stop at an abandoned general store and gas station. The section after the highway was flat and forever wide and we rode up to and through a bluff of wind-carved sandstone mounds. If you think of classic Utah national park pictures of rounded rocks, it was like that only painted in tans and browns instead of reds. We passsed through a gap to the rest stop at 60 miles, extra peanut butter and jelly sandwiches to hold us over to lunch. The one constant on this day, as everywhere we've been in the west, is how lush everything is. Sage, wildflowers, grass; green and more green, water pouring through the streams and irrigation troughs. Lakes have trees at their edge with water 3 feet up their trunks, just so much water, hard to hold it all.
By the way, don't go looking for any towns along this route, from Fort Bridger to Manila, Utah, you won't find a lot of anything except open ground. A 2 mile, bone-jarring descent down to a lake (reservoir? name?) then a 2 mile climb up the other side of the valley (now on Rt 44 for those of you following at home) and another descent to lunch at 91 miles. No more windswept mounds here in the Flaming Gorge Recreation Area, just raw edges of earth shoved up into the sky exposing layer upon layer of history in bright reds and brown. We sat in the shade of the tents under 300ft high rockworks that loomed high above, was a beautiful place to stop.

Then the fun started. From 91 miles to 129 miles was a climb from 6,700ft to 8,400ft, ah, just 1,700ft over 40 miles, easy, right? No, start with a 6 mile climb and 1400ft, then give back a lot of it on a descent, then climb again, give it back on another descent, repeat for 40 miles. I think the actual climbing along these 40-ish miles was about 3x the difference in starting and finishing altitudes, here's the topo of the day's route, the one big climb you see (mile 91) is what we did right after lunch.

The climb took us above the raw edges of earth pretty quickly and into forests of Ponderosa Pine, not much traffic, just up and down until we turned south on 191 and it was a straight shot (as the crow flies) south to Vernal. That's as the crow flies, as the bike rolls, up and down, up and down.
Oh, and see the pretty clouds? They got less pretty when they ganged together at the top of the mountain and Tom, Don, and I found ourselves racing to stay out of the hail and cold plops of water that started sprinkling down on us. We just did stay out in front, some of the folks behind us got nailed with rain and soaking wet.

After the last rest stop at 129 miles, another up and down and finally a long 9 mile descent on an 8% grade (southerly headwind included) before more ups and downs along the long run into Vernal. Signs along the way were about the history of the area; Vernal is a center of dinosaur history, so there were fossilized squid, alligator teeth, dinosaur bones, the bed of an ancient sea (at 7000ft...) in the rocky, choppy landscape.
Dinner at steakhouse and micro-brewery (and this in Utah, the Zion Bank and Gale's LDS Book Store and Supply across the street) and a lot of relieved and happy riders. As long rides go it was certainly interesting, pretty quick too at over 17MPH average.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Day 8, Montpelier, ID to Evanston, WY (via Utah!)

94 miles.





94 miles and 2500ft of climbing, which is really a way of saying "flat.". If you assume that 94 miles is something like 500,000ft (-ish) and then 2500 feet of vertical, the math works out to about 200 feet of straight for each foot of up. And in our case a big chunk of the up was in one hill that separated the first part of the day from the second... Part 1 was 40 miles of dead flat, we were over 20MPH average in our pace line heading south along the western shore of Bear Lake, where the first settlers (British) passed in wagons way back in 1830 (yes, that's right). The second half of the lake was in Utah, the hills to the west covered in very large houses, maybe folks from Salt Lake (just a couple hours away) that come up for holidays, certainly not locals. At the end of the lake was the separation stage, a 1,200 foot winding road up through red rock walls with Sage brush accents that dumped us into a totally different place. Below was the lake and the hills, here in Part 2 of the ride it was a lot, and a very, very lot it was, of nothing. Sage brush covered hills that went to every horizon, not rolling, more chopped and angled, but a long, long way in every direction of nothing.

And we weren't even in Wyoming yet, just somewhere in Utah where the south-west most corner of Idaho and and the northwest corner of Wyoming come together. Lots, and lots, of space. And headwinds, oh what a day. Those southerly breezes that run up to 25MPH that we first met in Missoula have followed us as we've gone south, and today was just a wind tunnel. With no wind we were 21MPH+ without really trying, just the Don, Mike and Tom club staying organized and taking turns. Into the wind we were about 15MPH doing 1 mile pulls. Sideways to to the wind Don opened up a can of woop-ass and we jammed along at 25MPH, but that only lasted until the next right hand turn.

So today wasn't really about the wide, wide, open spaces of the high plateau, the sage grass hills becoming more lush and turning to grass, not about the Prarie dogs which stood guard alongside the road or even the ceaseless wind in our face for the last 40 miles. No, today was about Tom. Tom the dictator, the capon, the patron. Tom who you can take out of an accounting role but you can't take the accountant out of Tom. Someone needed to keep the group (3, or 4, or 5, then 4 again) of us in line, lined up, organized, aligned to the smallest detail of spacing and turn, and thus what it was was a day of Tom's directives. A small sample:


Move over, no, to your left, car back, pull up, sweet spot is farther back, car back, take it down, keep together, car back, move over, trailer back, don't forget to drink, ok, trailer back, mile marker (his always came a little early I think), move left, not too fast, ow! (gravel getting shot out from somebody's wheel and bouncing off bike or rider...), car back, move left, a little slower, not too fast....


And that was just in the first minute! Amazing he could ride AND talk so much. In his defense it is a trick of group coordination with quartering headwinds so instead of just riding in a straight line you have to ride in a wing or echalon with the following rider's right hand about 2 inches off the left hip of the rider ahead of them. And somewhere in a 2 ft front or back range of that hand to hip position there is a lot of efficiency in being one of the followers. Meanwhile the front guy is getting tossed around by the gusts and the other riders are trying to hold their line despite the gravel and debris and all of them togeher are tucked in a 5 ft shoulder between the white edge of road line and the grass. But it worked, we were last out of the parking lot and last out of all food stops and out of lunch too and arrived exactly at 2:30 when the rooms were open, so an organized, steady day... with a lot of directions en route.


Good that it was an efficient day, followed by a big Mexican dinner, because tomorrow, ah, tomorrow, Day 9 is tomorrow, tomorrow is... the day. 150 miles and 8,000ft of climbing, apparently a 9mile uphill after lunch tomorrow near or to Flaming Gorge, something like that. Hardest day of the tour, breakfast at 5:30, on the bikes and out at 6:00am... Day 9, it's been on people's mind since Kalispell, and here we are.


Last thought before an early bedtime tonight, a new bird for my bird list, the White-faced Ibis, and one I've seen just once before, Yellow-headed Blackbird. You know, first flowers and now birds. Greg and I decided by the way that what we saw a lot of in Yellowstone but didn't write about was Subalpine Buckwheat. Like a light brown version of Yarrow but very different leaves. In case you were keeping track.








Monday, July 18, 2011

Day 7: Grand Teton\Jackson to Montpelier, ID

117 miles.

Back to business. After 3 days that weren't really right- too short on Day 4 and 5 (even if the Yellowstone Tour was worthwhile) and then the split day with a 40 mile bus ride on day 5- today was back to normal on PacTour. 117 miles and 4K feet of climbing, a full day and a strong effort. How'd we get here, well, we crossed the Idaho border at Geneva and came to Montpelier where if we went north the next town is Bern and if we went south the next town is Paris.



The detailed version is we followed Rt 89 south from Jackson, following the flow of the Snake River down and down some more under a blanket of clouds that suggested rain. Then at Alpine we switched tacts, although we didn't leave the highway, but now climbed very slowly against the flow of the Salt River past our lunch stop at Smoot (pop 100).

From there the climbing continued and got steeper as we crossed over two passes with a long decent between them, and then one more descent into Montpelier. All of the day was pretty, the first part dramatic with the steep canyon walls carved out by the Snake River and the surrounding hills full of pine trees. The second was agricultural but still interesting, the Salt Valley is a wide, flat, lush agricultural area so the National Forests and mountains on both sides must hold a lot of well fed deer and elk. And the final part was all National Forest (Caribou National Forest, were there ever caribou here) so no houses or businesses, just curving road through rolling hills of sage and wild flowers and a single cowboy riding his horse, probably looking after some sheep that were grazing nearby. Maybe it was also helped by the fact the sun came out for that part of the ride and it was a glorious afternoon to be on a bike.

From lunch we road with Cassie (Billboard) and Matthias (the 1 German, from Munich) so a slightly bigger group chasing each other up the summits. Which reminds me, I'm Seattle Mike (which must mean there is another Michael on the trip, but not sure who that is), and our group has picked up two new nicknames, "The Red Light Brigade" for our flashers and "The Three MUsketeers" (Don, Mike, and Tom). We also made Reg's name into a verb, which means to worry or to be concerned, in particular to doubt one's capabilities. Reg, naturally, was worried about this. He's riding really strong and taking quick pitstops (the food stops) so mostly we see him as a twinkle of his light in the far distance in front of us.

Tom got the town sign victory today, after I pulled the train of riders downhill from the second summit. Tom spotted the Montpelier town sign first and sprinted around me to claim it first. I mean, quick, ever remember the name of the lead out guy?


Tonight it's the Harry Potter movie in the Montpelier Theater for Mike & his roommate, Gregg (TN-edited)!

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 7 Jackson, WY to Montpelier, ID by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 7 Jackson, WY to Montpelier, ID by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 6 (2) Colter Bay to Jackson, WY by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 6 (2) Colter Bay to Jackson, WY by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 6 (1) Lake Yellowstone to West Thumb, WY by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 6 (1) Lake Yellowstone to West Thumb, WY by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 5 West Yellowstone to Lake Yellowston, WY by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

PAC Tour 2011 - Day 5 West Yellowstone to Lake Yellowston, WY by tnapa at Garmin Connect - Details

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Day 6: Yellowstone to Grand Teton

65 miles.  

Shorter than the expected 115 miles because park rules required us to shuttle (by van) across the south entrance to the park through a canyon with no shoulder to the road. Thus everyone was packed and ready to ride at 7am, but the 12 of us that didn't have to be back at West Thumb until 10:30 had just a 20 miler following along Yellowstone Lake. We lolled about, watched the 3 buffalo in the lot in front of our cabins, got hot cocoa, whatever. Greg and I decided to figure out what was flowering along the roads so we bought ID cards and stopped to identify almost everything we saw. This was at great personal cost due to the mostquitos which were lying in wait as soon as we left the asphalt, hope you appreciate the research. Tom & Don on the other hand went to the other lodging along the Lake (the appropriately named The Lake Lodge) to find some leather couches in the lobby to sit/relax until it was time to ride to West Thumb. 

In Glacier National Park we saw Bear Grass and something like clumps of daisies, but when we turned into the Gallatin National Forrest we've seen all sort of shapes and colors of flowers. The whites include Yarrow, little pillows of phlox lying low to the ground, and Western Bistort stalks that stand high above the rest. There is a beige something which looks like a cross between Yarrow and Queen Anne's Lace, maybe some form of buckwheat? Not sure. Yellows are dominated in fields of Heartleaf Arnica, a simple yellow center with yellow petals, and it's fireworks-like cousin, Yellow Salfify. We even found a roadside patch of Yellow Colombine. In purples there were Sticky Geraniums in a range from pale pink to a true purple, the occasional Indian Paintbrush, and as we got closer to Jackson Hole, Asters with pink petals and a yellow center. The most common color was blue in the Harebells, Lupine, and Mountain Bluebell which all look the same but the leaves are the key to telling them apart. The scariest looking flower was Elk Thistle, a bristling of swords points and thorns, and the one we had to look up later was Scarlet Gilia (sp?), which looked like a colombine-type floer on a single tall stalk.



(Phlox)







After retracing our steps the 20 miles to West Thumb, the van ride out of the park and into Teton National Park, then things got amazing, the road and cut-offs to see the Teton Mountain range to our right (to the west) as we headed south to Jackson. Will let the pictures Tom posts do the talking, but another day like yesterday, maybe the best one they will have all summer.
Beautiful!     

Lunch was late and then just 15 miserable headwind miles into the city of Jackson by 3:30. Clark will be here soon to whisk Tom and I off to dinner, and almost as important, a washing machine!